Thursday 10 September 2015

The Cheetah and the Lions

On Wednesday morning at 6:30 am, we left for the Mara River, a four hour drive across incredibly rough terrain, many river crossings, with views of numerous Maasai compounds and young boys herding cattle, goats and sheep.  We came to the plains of high grass, the reason the 1.5 million wildebeest and accompanying zebra, topi, and other myriad of animals risk the crossing of the river despite hordes of crocodiles just lying in wait.


After a brief leopard encounter—despite three vehicles roaring and revving around, she remained sleeping in the heavy brush, only the outline of her supine form visible—we made it to the river and staked out our place.  At first, it looked as though a brave ‘beest might attempt the crossing, despite several hippos stirring the waters, but then they retreated and began moving down river to another possible ford.  We moved several times, had our lunch, returned, sat and waited, but the ‘beests—seemingly led by a lone topi, were disinclined to navigate through the dozens of watching safari vehicles, nevermind the crocs.  When the herd began to crumple their legs and lie down on the far shore, Jackson put the Landcruiser into gear and we left.




An hour or so into the return trip, it began to rain, so Jackson and Christopher rolled down the plastic “windows" on the sides and we settled in for a steamy journey across the afternoon Savannah. About an hour later, however, the rain stopped and they rolled up the sides on the right of the Landcruiser, allowing Jackson less impaired vision.  Suddenly he swerved off the road—“Lions,” he announced, and drove across the now-closely cropped grass*. 

*Lion photo courtesy of  www.dreamstime.com


Two large females sat expectantly, looking for all the world like giant housecats on their haunches, their gaze fixed across the way.  We looked; over the dip of the hill sat four more safari vehicles.  Jackson quickly got on the radio and discovered:  A cheetah was about to make a kill*.

Cheetah photos courtesy of http://james-mcwilliams.com/


We hurried over and got there just in time to see her spring from her stalking crouch and chase a young gazelle to ground.  Jackson stopped the truck and she strutted past, head high, holding the still-kicking Thompson’s gazelle in her teeth.  Her long, graceful legs and dignified posture showed her pride in her kill:  “Clever girl,” I praised her softly, as she walked right by us*.  



Jackson turned the vehicle around so we could see where she went, but as he maneuvered into position, she began to emit a deep, purling growl or keening.  One of the lions approached her, after her kill; and to our horror, we saw the other heading towards three small bundles silhouetted against the horizon.  The cheetah had cubs, for whom she’d been hunting; and the lions were determined to get both the kill and the cubs if they could.

The name Gamewatchers isn’t just marketing—in addition to guiding safaris, the Maasai in the Mara are also stewards of Kenya’s great national parks.  It’s their responsibility to monitor and keep track of the various wildlife in their conservancies and preserves.  Ordinarily, they would never interfere with a natural event such as the one unfolding before us, but cheetahs are so endangered—only 5% of cubs ever make it to adulthood—that with a few quick radio communications, they made the decision to try to protect the cheetah and her young.

“The cheetah is nearly finished,” said Jackson, as he expertly twisted and turned the vehicle.  “We must protect.”

The cheetah reversed, running away from the cubs, with the first lion right behind her.  Although they are the fastest land mammals, they also can only run in sprints; she had already blown hers catching the gazelle.  The lion was hot on her tail, nearly literally.  I had my hand in my mouth and tears rose up as it looked like that huge, golden beast—at least twice as broad as the slender, leggy cat—seemed sure to catch her.  One of the other vehicles was after them, trying to come between.

Courtesy www.telegraph.co.uk


Jackson navigated us in the other direction, to ward off the second lion from the cubs.  Bounding away toward the tree line we saw the three, racing with their bodies close to the ground.  As two trucks roared towards it the second lioness gave up and turned away.

By the time we turned back, cheetah mom had lost the lion—and dropped her kill.  She also headed toward the tree line but in the other direction from the cubs.  Would they find each other? 
On the far side of the plain, across the tree-lined gully, we finally spotted the mother cheetah.  She had taken the long way around and was now circling back toward the direction the cubs had come.  I had no binoculars (and stupidly I left my glasses in the US) so all I could see was a blur—but then, finally, they found her, reunited with her three, across the plain from us.  Michael lent me his binoculars— through them I saw Mom, relieved but still watchful, the three-month cubs cavorting at her feet and around her tail.

Photo via National Geographic animals.nationalgeographic.com

Cheetahs are one of the most endangered animals because of their need for large, open spaces, on which humans have encroached relentlessly.  Once ranging across Africa and western Asia, they are now only present in eastern Africa and a small part of Iran, at only about 10% of their numbers 100 years ago.  They live alone after breeding and the female is solely responsible for her cubs.  She must protect her kill—and cubs—from other, larger predators, as we saw. 

Also, when the cubs get to be about six months old, Jackson told us, they become a problem, because they follow Mom and try to hunt, but don’t know how to hide or stalk, so end up chasing off the prey.  Often the whole family goes hungry.

According to Defenders of Wildlife, however, conservationists in Namibia have been working with ranchers and local people to stabilize the population.  We were very lucky to see our cheetah mom with her cubs and witness such a drama.

Courtesy wikipedia



OH, and guess what?  After the cheetah dropped it, the gazelle got up and ran away—both the cheetahs and the lions went without supper.  That’s the luckiest gazelle in Kenya*!

http://www.defenders.org/cheetah/threats


*Apologies for photos not my own; stupid camera battery died in the middle of the wildebeest herd.

2 comments:

  1. This is a wonderful story. I know Jackson and can well picture the exciting events unfolding.

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    1. Jackson and the guys at Ol Kinyei camp are so awesome!

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